Glutie Foodie

Adventures of a Gluten-Free Gal Dining Out


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Sushiko a Go-Go

Sushiko     Spoons_THREE_76x25

Ma and Pa Glutie Foodie recently came to town for a visit. At the end of a hectic weekend filled with lots of indulgent eating and exhausting activities, Ma and Pa, Sister Seitan and I were all in the mood for something low key, light and healthy. Sushi sounded perfect and I knew just the place. Washington DC has Sushiko to thank for leading the bandwagon of authentic Japanese cuisine in the District.  The restaurant opened its Georgetown doors in 1975 and expanded in 2008 to a second location in Chevy Chase, MD.  In a city of mediocre Americanized sushi and Asian Fusion confusion, Sushiko’s traditional simplicity and reliable quality is refreshing. Their mission is to honor Japanese culinary techniques, using care and precision in the preparation of exemplary food.

Despite Japanese cuisine’s minimalist characteristics, it is often a challenge for gluten-free diners to enjoy sushi worry-free. Between wheat-based components like soy sauce and tempura, and language barriers, gluten-free awareness can vary greatly between restaurants. Thus, I was thrilled to learn that Sushiko is once again ahead of the game with a gluten-free menu that includes dozens of tempting options. To start, Sushiko offers a couple of salad options dressed with oil and rice vinegar, a simple accommodation that should be offered at all Japanese establishments (I have no idea why it’s not). Items in the hot dishes category are stripped down to their bare bones, sans sauce. Chicken Teriyaki, Beef Tenderloin Kushi Yaki and Grilled Salmon Miso Yu-an are simply cooked with salt and pepper, healthy yet uninspiring. While I appreciate every effort made, I urge Sushiko to go one step further. Gluten-free tamari sauce is readily available to accompany the sushi; why not try cooking up a sauce with the tamari to dress up the hot dishes.

If you’re in the mood for more zest, the maki section of the menu offers a nice variety of options. For safety purposes in other Japanese restaurants, I typically stick to basic rolls comprised of some combination of salmon, tuna, yellowtail avocado and cucumber. While delicious, it gets boring! Luckily Sushiko provides some color. I was thrilled to see a Spicy Tuna roll listed, something I always avoid due to ambiguous spicy sauce recipes. Other exciting options include Rock Shrimp Cilantro maki with jalapeno and mayo, and the Soft Shell Crab maki, with gluten-free flour for the tempura.

Left: Asparagus–Red Pepper and Spicy Tuna Maki; Right: Yellowtail and Green Onion and Smoked Salmon, Asparagus and Avocado

Left: Asparagus/Red Pepper Maki and Spicy Tuna Maki; Right: Yellowtail/Green Onion Maki, Smoked Salmon/Asparagus/Avocado Maki, and Akami Nigiri

Overall, Sushiko provides a stress-free environment to enjoy top grade raw fish and all the fixings. While the menu leaves room for improvement regarding gluten-free preparations, it aims to please more than just the g-free among us. Sister Seitan’s vegetarian palette was quite content, and Pa Glutie Foodie’s aversion to sushi proved inconsequential. But what pleased Pa the most were the reasonable prices, a relief after a long weekend of treating his girls.

Sushiko, 2309 Wisconsin Avenue Northwest, Washington, DC 
Sushiko, 5455 Wisconsin Avenue, Chevy Chase, MD


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American Wat

Jackie’s Restaurant     

 It seems I have been hearing an awful lot lately about Ethiopian food. Or perhaps it’s a case of selective hearing. I have been tempted by the cuisine for a long time, but shied away from it when led to believe that the injera (a spongy flat bread essential to an Ethiopian meal) is often made with a blend of teff (a gluten-free grass indigenous to Ethiopia) and wheat flours. So, I filed Ethiopian food in my drawer of deprived pleasures.

Which brings me to the other night at the contemporary American restaurant, Jackie’s, in Silver Spring, MD. Our good friends, “The Oreos”, introduced us to this beacon of deliciousness in a sea of mediocre Silver Spring establishments. Located in a converted auto parts garage, the restaurant breaths a 60s industrial-chic ambience. The cocktail and food menu reverberates the same “cool” vibe and fuses an assortment of flavors from around the world with seasonal, organic, local ingredients. For starters, “Guacamole with fresh radish, cucumber and jicama slices” is listed right above “zucchini cups with halloumi cheese and spicy sesame sauce” (both gluten-free). Several items sounded tempting. But then my eye scanned down to the entrees and stopped at the very first one. Jackie’s offers an “Ethiopian inspired vegetable platter served on local teff injera.” This injera is authentically made on sight with teff flour only, and the day’s vegetarian wat (thick stews) were gluten-free as well. “Glutie Foodie”, I said to myself (maybe out loud a little), “now is your chance” (the Oreos looked confused).

The platter arrived and commandeered a good portion of the table. My eyes widened and I inventoried my winnings—scoops of green beans in a tomato base, sweet lentil puree, garlicky eggplant with chickpeas, salty collard greens, and spicy tofu, all on a giant g-free pancake. With a napkin in my left hand I dug in with my right. Each stew complimented the other with a diverse range of flavors, spices and textures. Ethnic authenticity is beside the point for this American, farm-to-table rendition of an Ethiopian meal. It did not disappoint.

Ethiopian inspired vegetable platter served on local teff injera

My chosen liquid pairing furthered the meal’s cultural confusion. The blackberry lime margarita, made with Hornitos Reposado, triple sec, blackberries, lime juice, and a salted rim, is surprisingly more tart than sweet. This refreshing cocktail provided a nice buzz and a smile, rather than a cavity. Topping off our world tour was the I-can’t-believe-it’s-gluten-free “Bittersweet Pavé”—flourless chocolate cake with sesame caramel and orange whipped cream. The sesame surprises the senses as a welcome compliment to the fluffy chocolate cake, which was just rich enough to split four ways.

Bittersweet Pavé–flourless chocolate cake with sesame caramel and orange whipped cream

Chef Diana Davila-Boldin creates confident dishes that flatter rather than imitate traditional cuisines. Her culinary riffs celebrate ethnic inspirations in American food. Ingredients and menu items change seasonally, which means come the winter months, a whole new list of inventive concoctions are in store. Despite menu change-ups, the staff knows their stuff and is happy to provide accurate gluten-free information. The kitchen is agreeable to modifications, as we found out when Mr. Green Bean ordered his Amish Chicken sans “bleu cheese potato mash, beets, fennel and watermelon”. He just wanted a side of green beans. Oye.

Jackie’s turned out to be a great baby step in my challenge to eat ethnic safely. I am now inspired to investigate further into gluten-free Ethiopian dining and hope to report back soon…

Jackie’s Restaurant, 8081 Georgia Avenue, Silver Spring, MD 20910